the irony of surfing

by wynlim

I haven’t been feeling well since yesterday. I’ve been getting chills even though it is hot in Hawaii and also my chest feels heavy. I hope it is not all that sea water I’ve been drinking through my nose because of surfing. It could probably just be my body’s tired.

Things have been so crazy in Hawaii that I’ve been on an adrenaline rush. Apart from work, I’ve also been doing a lot of movement of my arms and legs paddling in the sea, which gets worse because I think I am not doing it the wrong way. There’s also a lot of frantic flailing of my arms when I get knocked off my board and get sucked into a wave, a lot of carrying that I’ve never done in my life because I have to carry my own longboard. I’ve also accumulated tons of bruises because I don’t know why I keep attracting people’s boards to run over my legs.

Basically, I swear I’ve never done so much physical movement in my entire life. Maybe the exception was when I had to do those compulsory 2.4km runs in school.

It has been somewhat so hectic that I don’t have a chance to feel tired. Every day it is just go, go, go. I’ve been enjoying the sea so much that I forget to feel tired.

Perhaps that’s all catching up with me since I’ve almost been doing a month of that. 

I think I am going to miss all of these when I am back to no-surfing land. All those surfboards running over me, the impact of the cold sea water and the relentless energy of the waves knocking me over and over again.